Ah, for a meal at an airport!

As flying became a more middle-class thing, the price of meal at airports has become an issue

Alok Tiwari

“Build a better mousetrap, and the world will beat a path to your door,” goes the quote often attributed (probably erroneously) to late 19^th century American essayist and philosopher Ralph Waldo Emerson. It likely originated from a person frustrated with inefficient mousetraps and longed for a better one. The phrase has now come to be the guiding principle for businesses wanting to create offerings that customers harassed by shoddy products seek. In modern Indian context, it can be applied to an unlikely craving—the airport meal. Or a snack, or just a cup of tea. If only someone could figure out a way to serve reasonably priced food at our airports, Indians will build a runway to their door.

In recent times social media has been set aflutter by fliers dismayed by overpriced menus at Indian airports. One lamented a Rs600 masala dosa. A friend who complained on social media about humble Rajma Chawal costing Rs 500 while he awaited boarding was astonished to find the post being picked up by virtually every media outlet in the country. It obviously struck a chord across the nation harassed by outrageous prices for food and drinks at airports and inside the planes. This has got worse in recent times as even air ticket prices have inched up and simultaneously services of airlines noticeably deteriorated for a variety of reasons.

This would not have been a problem a generation ago when flying was the preserve of the rich. A one and half hour domestic flight some 30 years ago would have cost entire monthly salary of a middle level executive. Now, even in absolute terms, the same executive might pay for 20 such flights with his pay. Consider the inflation and it might appear almost free. Back then, it was champagne and caviar on the planes and the travelling class would hardly bother about the cost. But now flying is much more widespread and democratic. Today nearly 4 lakh people, or entire population of a small town, take to the skies each day in India and the number is set to only grow.

The advent of low-cost airlines and super-efficient planes made it possible. But this has come at the cost of perks like in-flight meals. The airlines now keep basic fare low while charging for everything else including meals, seats, and luggage, or even cancellation. As flying became more a middle-class thing, the price of a meal at airports has become an issue, particularly for famously price-sensitive Indian crowd.

Airlines got many Indians addicted to flying by starting with ultra-low fares. The wonder of reaching your destination within a few hours and in decent shape as opposed to spending more than a day in a crowded, noisy, dirty train for almost the same price got us hooked. Not only do we get there fast but there is little danger of finding someone occupying our seats or luggage space all taken up. Now the fares may not be as cheap as before, but we still love the convenience of flying. So, even if somewhat grudgingly, we are ready to pay more for it, because the alternative is a bus or a train, even if it is Vande Bharat.

No such advantage for the food vendors though. There may be many reasons why airport food is expensive. Rents to airport operator, security requirements, transporting material long distances, maintaining certain ambience all push up costs. But the vendors, unlike airlines, offer no clear advantage over an inexpensive food joint just outside the airport. In fact, it is often the other way round: the tea you get inside for over Rs100 is often worse that what you get outside for a fourth that price. Call us cheapskates, but nobody has been able to make Indians pay for something they do not perceive a value in. Who in their right mind will pay Rs300 for a couple of soulless lukewarm samosas when they can buy hot and spicy ones on way to airport for Rs 30? Or better still, pack a meal from home or hotel, complete with achar and raita, and shamelessly polish it off in the waiting area. The celebs may broadcast their airport look, we (I plead guilty too) gladly advertise the aromas of our home kitchen.

Now, many of those who fly might be able to afford an occasional expensive meal, but that is not the grouse is about. No one wants the feeling of being ripped off. The angst at getting the same or even noticeably inferior food at four to ten times the price is what gets the goat of fliers. Hence, when someone does groan publicly about it, it resonates. There might be a business opportunity here. The response to public complaints only indicates there is huge demand for more reasonably priced meals at airport. They need not be as cheap as street food outside but not as expensive as at present either.

So, as that alleged Emerson quote reminds us, it is a situation waiting for a disruptor. It is tough to believe that high food prices at airports are purely a function of higher costs though that might be one of the factors. It is more a hangover from the days when flying was considered an exclusive activity. Also, there is a perception that people at airport are captive customers. They may be captive for a while but most of them have avoided being customers for airport food outlets. If airport operators, airlines, and vendors figure out a way to lower costs they have a huge untapped market to win, and potentially much greater profits as Indian aviation continues to grow. While they are at it, could they also consider lie-flat seats in economy, please!

This column appeared in Lokmat Times on Jan 17, 2024